How Château Maris, A B Corp European Vineyard Is Pioneering A New Movement Towards Sustainable Viticulture
Château Maris is the first European vineyard to obtain B Corporation® certification, which denotes companies that transform their business into a virtuous force for good: good for workers, good for communities and good for the environment.
Their goal has always been to produce quality wines by adopting practices that respect not only nature, but also the men and women with whom they work. They are equally committed to inspiring other wineries and companies to adopt sustainable agricultural practices and socially responsible corporate policies. Château Maris was the first vineyard in the AOC Minervois La Livinière to be fully certified biodynamic.
After having travelled throughout the most beautiful wine-growing regions in the world, working with many renowned oenologists, winemaker Robert Eden fell under the spell of La Livinière and moved to Château Maris in 1997. With a desire to produce high-quality wines that respect the environment, he implemented an organic and biodynamic approach from the outset. A committed winegrower and world-renowned specialist in biodynamics, he promotes the benefits of this practice throughout the sector, thus inspiring global environmental change.
I caught up with Robert to hear more about his journey.
Afdhel Aziz: Robert, welcome. Please tell us about how your journey to become a winemaker started?
Robert Eden: A mishap in my early efforts at home brewing beer in England saw me exit, slightly prematurely, the education system! I was inspired by Hugh Johnsons World Wine Atlas that was, and still is, a beautiful travel book. My Father had also played a role when he gifted me some cases of wine for investment on my 16th birthday. I somehow found myself in Australia in the Hunter Valley working for an inspiring man called Len Evans at Rothbury Estate and I have been working in wine ever since in many parts of the world for many inspiring people.
Aziz: How did your obsession with biodynamic practices start?
Château Maris covers 45 hectares of land, divided into a multitude of plots on the hillside above La Livinière. It received Ecocert certification in 2002, then Biodyvin in 2004 and Demeter in 2008.
However I made the grave error of not considering the health of the soil where the vines grow. In this case the soil had been gravely mistreated by too much chemical fertiliser and weed killer and other toxic chemicals that had rid it of all its life.
Biodynamics was a natural choice, in more ways than one. By restoring virtuous circles within the soil, between the soil and the plant, the plant and the sky, Man and the elements, we can preserve our environment for future generations, but also produce purer, finer and more elegant wines.
Aziz: For those of us who don’t understand - what is biodynamic, and how does it create a better product?
Eden: We see nature as the mother of all things and as such, it demands our utmost respect. Biodynamic viticulture is a constant reminder that life, in all its forms, plays a role and that we must endeavour to care for it and understand it every day. We pay minute attention to lunar and solar cycles, much like an orchestra conductor, so as to grasp every subtlety. From soil preparation to grape harvesting, we let nature guide us. The soils and living organisms that make up and surround our vineyard form a complex ecosystem that influences the quality and flavours of our grapes. It is our role to enable this ecosystem to work as effectively as nature intended; we are convinced that through more respectful working methods, we can produce quality wines.
Aziz: And how does it lead to better wine?
Eden: Because it encourages the life to live in a balanced manner in the soil via increased levels of organic matter principally aided by adding compost. The more organic life in the soil the more resilient it is and the easier it is for your plant to serve its purpose and grow delicious fruit to make great tasing well balanced wine.
Our winery is a truly singular place. We produce our wines with indigenous yeast, in custom-made wooden, thick concrete or egg-shaped vats to avoid using electrically conductive materials. A classic stamp of Château Maris’ identity is our ovoid vats. This shape, adapted from Roman dolia, naturally encourages the flow of energy and convection currents. Our preserved wines are light “brewed” by the natural resuspension of the fine lees. This winemaking process allows us to produce exceptional vintages.
Aziz: How does greater biodiversity help your health, not just planetary health?
Eden: Quite simply it’s the interconnectedness of all biodiversity that brings us the balance we need for all our health. It is only by destroying and diminishing this balance that we require unnatural additives that put our health at risk.
Climate change is a decisive factor for the wine industry. In an effort to continuously preserve nature, we wanted the winery to consume as little energy as possible, all while maintaining its practical aspect. We therefore opted for hemp, renowned for its natural insulation. This breathable material drastically reduces our carbon footprint and is perfectly suited to today’s environmental challenges.
It took eight years to build this 9,000-m2 100% plant-based cellar, which is completely biodegradable, self-sufficient in energy and carbon negative. A world first.
Through biodynamics, we can preserve the natural environment for future generations.
Aziz: Finally, are you hopeful that the rest of the winemaking industry globally will follow your lead?
Eden: Of course, but it is also up to the consumer to force that choice and for the stewards of our soils to push the boundaries ensuring a healthy soil and healthy crop yields.
For more than 20 years, we have been the architects of sustainable viticulture that takes care of the life around us, and places Nature in the hearts of Man and Man at the heart of Nature.
We firmly believe it is possible to produce quality wines while respecting the vine. Today, we are happy to preserve the beauty and richness of our land, out of respect for it, for our work, for our customers, and for our children. Through our high standards, we produce sustainable wines, which are as good as they are attractive and organic.
For us, it is a question of respecting the whole cycle, and not just a part of it.